Ultimaker 3 feeder problems free.

August 25, 2022

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Trouble with feeder and PLA - Ultimaker 3D printers - Ultimaker Community of 3D Printing Experts

Ultimaker 3 Feeding Issues - Ultimaker 3D printers - Ultimaker Community of 3D Printing Experts - Create an account or sign in to comment

I would recommend to stick to the original profile, and make sure your PVA is dry before you load it in the material station. You might want to check if the coupler holding your bowden tube did not get damaged why the bowden tube got loose. You can do so by removing the horse shoe, push down the coupler and pull out the bowden tube. The coupler should now sit loose in the feeder and you should be able to get it out. In the inside you should see 4 small metal blades that grab into the bowden tube.

If they seem bent or missing you might want to get a new coupler from your reseller they don't cost much. If they are still good or when you have new ones make sure the bowden tube is put back properly. Instructions can be found here. So I would recommend to dry your PVA, use the default profile, make sure the print cores are clean and let us know how it goes then. Good luck! Thanks SandervG ,. The result is on-going but looks ok. Of course, at the cost of the resolution that is now limited to 0.

Concerning the BB 0. Nevertheless, I just read about the cardbox procedure with 50'C on the building plate for hrs ; or the hrs in an industrial oven. I don't see why such a difference.

We have both so, I'll give it a try. Concerning the bowder coupler, I have never seen these 4 small metal blades, so I suppose I should look after them re-order. I have purchased 6 Ultimaker S5's for my workplace. We have found that if we put it in our filament dryer for a few hours, it will work pretty well. Every now and then we observe it breaking within the Bowden tube.

I highly recommend the PrintDry Pro series of filament dryers! We also vacuum seal the material in their plastic containers. They are not cheap but for the research printing we do, we feel it is worth it. We are trying out the Ultimaker Breakaway material. We're still working on the ideal settings for it since some of the team find it difficult to remove. You need to be a member in order to leave a comment. Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy! Already have an account?

Sign in here. SandervG posted a topic in Official news , February 9, Ultimaker S5 feeder problems and grinding. Share More sharing options Followers 3. Recommended Posts. LePaul Posted February 20, I've reached out to Support and hopeful they can offer some advice I haven't thought of. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options SandervG 1, Posted February 20, Picture coming.

More testing. Dim3nsioneer Posted February 20, If not done already, check if the Bowden tube is mounted the correct way round. LePaul Posted February 21, I've been working with Erin over to support on this. I reloading the PVA and it was trickling out of the hot end.

Still working through some ideas. There is a very small chance it is a temperature issue - if the nozzle is oscillating slowly in temperature by more than 5C you can also get this pattern because hotter nozzles extrude more.

This is easy to test during the print - just watch the nozzle temperature readings from the TUNE menu while it's printing. This is unlikely because your part looks too large for an oscillation to be that slow. Good morning. Thank you all for the advice. As soon as I can do the tests you have advised me and let me know how it went.

Do you advise me to use the Ultimaker materials because the machine is set to just go with your own? The combination of Cura with all the quality profiles and the UM3 and the Ultimaker materials is thoroughly tested. You will get excellent results in terms of print quality and reliability. Ultimaker sells an open system, and you can choose to use other filaments.

I really like colorfabb ngen so far have only printed maybe 10 meters and 10 prints. Don't get cheap chinese filaments unless you care more about functionality than how it looks and don't care about strength, brittleness. Hi friend. I checked the straps, one was slightly slow. I tried to pull it, it works, but then you loose the belt of the opposite side.

So I don't understand where I'm wrong. I don't think you need to tighten the straps. You just need to tighten the pulleys. The pulleys are not supposed to rotate on their shafts - they are supposed to be attached to the shaft. There is a small screw to connect them together. If that screw isn't tight enough then the pulley slips a tiny amount and can cause "layer shifting". I'm not sure that you even have layer shifting. There is no photo above that shows layer shifting.

It usually looks like this. Actually I should have you just read this:. You need to be a member in order to leave a comment. Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy! Already have an account?

Sign in here. SandervG posted a topic in Official news , February 9, Check this fan.. Thanks Torgeir. Hi Torgeir , that's a very promising lead! Thanks Stefan. If you can't find the problem this way, it might be easier for you this way: So here's a video made by fbrc8-erin if needed to open the extruder unit:. Glad it helped you. StefanF 2 Posted December 28, Create an account or sign in to comment You need to be a member in order to leave a comment Create an account Sign up for a new account in our community.

Register a new account. Sign in Already have an account? Sign In Now. Go to topic listing. Our picks New here? Get ahead with a free onboarding course SandervG posted a topic in Official news , February 9, Hi, Often getting started is the most difficult part of any process.

A good start sets you up for success and saves you time and energy that could be spent elsewhere. They're ready for you on the Ultimaker Academy platform. All you need to do to gain access is to register your product to gain free access.

Ultimaker 3 feeder problems free

JohnInOttawa 99 Posted November 1, When you unload the filament, does it show any divots or signs of grinding? Jls 0 Posted November 2, Smithy 1, Posted November 2, Great that you were Abel to solve the problem. Thank you. I will check that measurement later.

Jls 0 Posted November 3, Jls 0 Posted November 4, Smithy 1, Posted November 4, The fan is still available as spart part, just ask your reseller. Torgeir Posted November 4, If this is internal noise from the fan, it will need to be changed.

Using shrink tube only makes the wire stiffer and make it break soon again. The fan is working, so the problem is probably the fan. Where can I mail order a new fan? Every UM reseller should have it. I've got a video here on how to install it:. Create an account or sign in to comment You need to be a member in order to leave a comment Create an account Sign up for a new account in our community. Register a new account. Sign in Already have an account? Sign In Now.

As soon as I can do the tests you have advised me and let me know how it went. Do you advise me to use the Ultimaker materials because the machine is set to just go with your own? The combination of Cura with all the quality profiles and the UM3 and the Ultimaker materials is thoroughly tested. You will get excellent results in terms of print quality and reliability. Ultimaker sells an open system, and you can choose to use other filaments.

No problem with me, but often that means you have to spend time on optimising print settings and dealing with failed prints, because materials from different suppliers have different properties. I agree with tom nagel but I usually buy filaments from other suppliers. I really like colorfabb ngen so far have only printed maybe 10 meters and 10 prints. Don't get cheap chinese filaments unless you care more about functionality than how it looks and don't care about strength, brittleness.

Hi friend. I checked the straps, one was slightly slow. I tried to pull it, it works, but then you loose the belt of the opposite side. So I don't understand where I'm wrong. I don't think you need to tighten the straps. You just need to tighten the pulleys. The pulleys are not supposed to rotate on their shafts - they are supposed to be attached to the shaft. There is a small screw to connect them together.

If that screw isn't tight enough then the pulley slips a tiny amount and can cause "layer shifting". I'm not sure that you even have layer shifting. There is no photo above that shows layer shifting.

It usually looks like this. Actually I should have you just read this:. You need to be a member in order to leave a comment. Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy! Before you used your PVA, did you dry it to ensure it is dry enough to use?

It is important to realise that the material station is intended to keep your filament dry, not to make it dry. You can find instructions on how to dry it here. We have introduced a new feeder wheel after Paul's original issue which significantly increase the reliability of printing with PVA.

You can do so by removing the horse shoe, push down the coupler and pull out the bowden tube. The coupler should now sit loose in the feeder and you should be able to get it out. In the inside you should see 4 small metal blades that grab into the bowden tube.

Good luck! Thanks SandervG ,. The result is on-going but looks ok. Of course, at the cost of the resolution that is now limited to 0. Concerning the BB 0. Nevertheless, I just read about the cardbox procedure with 50'C on the building plate for hrs ; or the hrs in an industrial oven. I don't see why such a difference. We have both so, I'll give it a try. Concerning the bowder coupler, I have never seen these 4 small metal blades, so I suppose I should look after them re-order.

I have purchased 6 Ultimaker S5's for my workplace. We have found that if we put it in our filament dryer for a few hours, it will work pretty well. Every now and then we observe it breaking within the Bowden tube. I highly recommend the PrintDry Pro series of filament dryers! We also vacuum seal the material in their plastic containers. They are not cheap but for the research printing we do, we feel it is worth it. We are trying out the Ultimaker Breakaway material.

We're still working on the ideal settings for it since some of the team find it difficult to remove. You need to be a member in order to leave a comment.

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy! Already have an account? Sign in here. SandervG posted a topic in Official news , February 9, Sometimes the feeder really grinds into the material, and you see where it was blocked, but quite often it also is only having slight signs of having been blocked just a bit of additional material taken away, no full grind. I'm a bit lost what might be the reason, anyone has had such stubborn levels of non-feeding already?

Hi StefanF ,. As lack of this fan gradually increase the temperature at the "cold" upper part of the heat block and make filament become soft here before entering the heater so it will create a lot of additional load for the feeder.. Hi Torgeir ,. There actually was some PLA residue inside mostly threads ; I removed what I saw but didn't really think about it too much, so there might be enough left to block it. Do you have some hints how to clean that fan best?

Great, hmm -you might look more closely with a good light and see if there is more that's locking the fan from rotating. So here's a video made by fbrc8-erin if needed to open the extruder unit:. Hey, I guess you were right. The video is awesome, I already disassembled it with this guideline, which is also nice:. That menu does not control the front fan. That menu controls the side fans. The front fan is controlled by the firmware and will automatically run when the nozzle is at 50 C.

Interesting, then I'll put it back in it's fairly clean by now and heat up the print core to see what happens. Thanks for the tip!

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